Product description:

Forester Finishing Kits are available as transparent or opaque coatings. They combine the advantages of natural oils and waxes in a unique way into a single product. The coating is dirt resistant, water-repellent and abrasion-resistant – and thus perfect for withstanding the day-to-day needs of working musicians. The wood structure can still be seen through the coating. Thanks to the use of plant-based ingredients, more uniform colouration and a more harmonious coating finish are achieved.
Simple to apply, no primer required.
It is open-pored, perfect for wood, doesn’t crack, flake or scale off and is durability tested to DIN 68861-1C.
The dried coating is safe for humans, animals and plants (sweat and saliva-resistant in accordance with DIN 53160, also suitable for children’s toys in accordance with EN 71.3).

All of the stains can be mixed, so there are no limits to your own personal creativity!

Due to their composition, the colours received may vary from the colour shown on the wood.

All the stains are MADE IN GERMANY.

We recommend trying out the stain by applying a test coating to a piece of wood or a test board made from the same type of wood so that you can get used to the application techniques.
Similarly, it is also a good idea to check the colour on a sample piece of wood before you actually start work on your guitar.

Ingredients:
Based on natural plant-based oils and waxes (sunflower oil, soybean oil, safflower oil, carnauba wax and candelilla wax), paraffins, iron oxide and organic pigments, titanium dioxide (white pigment), siccatives (drying agents) and water-repellent additives.
We will be happy to send a detailed full declaration to you on request.

Preparation:

The raw body or neck must be clean, dry and untreated. There must not be any sealant, undercoat or other forms of pretreatment present.
Among other things, the results will depend on the properties of the wood. For this reason, we always recommend a test coating. Test boards for different types of wood are available in our shop.
Work on a soft surface so that the wood cannot be scratched.
Pre-sand the clean raw wood with 100 grit sandpaper. (This is more than enough for this step). Make sure that all scratches are smoothed out, as otherwise they will become visible when the first undercoat is applied.
We recommend that you wear gloves during sanding and processing to avoid any grease spots on the wood from your hands or from moisturisers etc.
After the pre-sanding, clean all the dust from the wood. This can be done with compressed air or with a fine brush. Commercially available dust removing cloths are also very well suited to this. Any residual dust in the wood will lead to unsightly colour spots in the wood.
This is why it is so important to clean off the dust.

!!! A common mistake is if the sandpaper that is used for pre-sanding before the first coat is too fine.
In this step you are only preparing the wood for application of the stain.

!!! Do not use any sealants, fillers or primer, as the finish serves the same purpose.

Processing techniques:

Based on our experience, the following three processing methods are best suited to achieving a high-quality surface finish

1.    Application of the stain with a lint-free cotton cloth.

Slow build-up of colour depth on transparent colours.

Disadvantage: A lot of the stain remains in the cloth, and more coats are required.

2.    Application of the stain by rubbing it in with your fingers or hand.

The stain is rubbed into the wood with your fingers (wear gloves!).
This produces a very intensive and quick application of colour.

This is our recommended technique for all neck colours and for the transparent body colours.

3.    Application of the stain with a paintbrush.

All opaque colours should be applied with a high-quality paintbrush.
For best results, please only use high-quality paintbrushes.
We recommend hog bristle paintbrushes, which have proved to be the most successful option in our workshop.


We recommend trying out the stain by applying a test coating to a test board so that you can get used to the application techniques.

Application of the stain:

Transparent colours and all neck colours

Thoroughly shake the stain before applying it and then transfer only a small amount (never more than a quarter of the bottle) to a flat dish or similar so that you can dip a cloth in it. Rub a coating of the stain over the entire surface. Rub 2-3 times with circular motions under slight pressure over the entire body of the guitar to achieve uniform colour distribution for the stain.
To finish, rub again along the grain and make sure that any excess stain is wiped off.
Leave the wood to dry for 24 hours.

Once the first coat has dried, proceed cautiously and perform intermediate sanding without exerting pressure using 200 to 250 grit sandpaper. Depending on the desired intensity of colour, continue to apply more coats.
Depending on the technique used, you will need around 3-4 coats when using a cloth or 2-3 coats when rubbing in the stain by hand. Always allow a drying time of 24 hours after every coat. We recommend intermediate sanding with 400 grit sandpaper before the final coat.


Opaque colours

All opaque colours are 2-in-1 stains that can be used as both transparent or 100% opaque colours.

The colour kits for the opaque colours contain the basic stain, white stain and an empty bottle for mixing. You can adjust the brightness of the final colour by mixing the basic stain with white to suit your own preferences.  

Thoroughly shake the stain before applying it and then transfer only a small amount (never more than a quarter of the bottle) to a flat dish or similar so that you can dip a paintbrush in it. The first coat is primer coat and should be applied using a cloth.
Rub a coating of the stain over the entire surface. Rub 2-3 times with circular motions under slight pressure over the entire body of the guitar to achieve uniform colour distribution for the stain.
To finish, rub again along the grain and make sure that any excess stain is wiped off.
Leave the wood to dry for 24 hours.
Once the first coat has dried, proceed cautiously and perform intermediate sanding without exerting pressure using 200 to 250 grit sandpaper.
Then use a high-quality paintbrush to apply the opaque colour.
Depending on the type of wood you will need around 1-2 coats. Always allow a drying time of at least 24 hours after every coat. 48 hours of drying is ideal.
We recommend intermediate sanding with 400 grit sandpaper before the final coat.


!!! All opaque colours can be used both for transparent and opaque finishes.
You should always use a paintbrush for an opaque finish, but it is better to use a cloth or your fingers for a transparent finish.
 
 
Fingerboard tint

To tint a fingerboard, apply the stain evenly and thinly. Depending on the desired colouration, 2 coats should be sufficient. The drying time per coat is 24 hours. Then you can buff up the finish to a degree of gloss by following the instructions under POLISHING.


 

Application of the top coat

The final top coat strengthens the colour intensity of the surface of the wood, is water and dirt repellent, durable and extremely resilient.
 
Start by lightly sanding the body or neck with fine sandpaper to smooth out any bumps or unevenness. Shake the top coat well and apply a thin coat.
Always finish this process by painting along the grain and check again that there is no excess anywhere. It doesn’t matter if you can initially see lines from the cloth or paintbrush after applying the top coat, as these lines will disappear during the hardening phase thanks to the special waxes and curing agents it contains.
Apply the individual coats as thinly as possible – even if you are tempted to work thicker coats directly into the wood.
Leave the top coat to dry for around 24 hours before applying the next coat. Full hardening will be achieved after around 2-3 weeks.
Depending on the desired degree of gloss, 2-3 coats should be sufficient.

Polishing

After hardening you can carefully polish the finish. However, do not use a polishing machine for this.
We initially sand the hardened top coat with 1800 grit MicroMesh emery cloth and then with a soft piece of leather.


Tip

The best tip we can offer is to not rush the work process.
Apply the layers of stain as thinly as possible and without any excess.
Leave enough time for hardening.
The oils emphasise the natural hue of the wood. Over-application and lack of ventilation will cause drying delays and the smells typical for oil.
Although this may take several weeks to complete, the results certainly justify the efforts.
Once the last coat of top coat has been applied, leave the guitar to harden for at least a week before reassembling the hardware.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us at any time.


Important brush care tips

Never leave your brush to dry without cleaning it first.
Always remove all stain residue at the edge of the ferrule.
Water-soluble stains should be rinsed out of the brush with water immediately after use.
Oil-based paints and stains should first be cleaned off with brush cleaner, and the rest should be wiped off with an absorbent cloth.
To get rid of the pigment residue, which collects particularly at the edge of the ferrule, thoroughly wash the head of the paintbrush while rubbing it. Then wipe down the brush with a fine cloth and reshape the head of the brush back into its original form.
Paintbrushes should be allowed to dry at normal room temperature. Do not place them on a radiator or similar.
Never stand the brush on its hairs or bristles. Instead, store it lying down or, even better, hang it up after use.
Do not reuse the paintbrush until it has dried properly.


We hope you enjoy using our paint kits and hope you achieve brilliant results!
We would love to hear from you with suggestions or photos of your projects.

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